Organic food has definitely gained popularity with the rise of ethical consumption. But it's worth considering whether the same principles apply to what we wear as well. After all, just like with food, the fashion industry has its own set of ethical concerns, and what you wear can be just as important as what’s on your plate. For that reason, today we are discussing the growth in organic cotton, whether it is sustainable, and why it is better for you and the planet.
Organic cotton it's grown without artificial fertilisers or toxic pesticides where conventional cotton (also known as regular cotton) production involves harmful synthetic chemicals that can be catastrophic for the environment and human health.
To gain certification for growing organic cotton, certain standards and practices must be met. The process begins by using seeds that are grown on land free from synthetic pesticides, insecticides, fertilisers, genetically modified organisms (GMOs), growth regulators, and other toxic products for at least three years.
Crop rotation is essential during this time to maintain soil fertility. Once the cotton is harvested, it undergoes processing which includes ginning (removing seeds from fibres) and spinning (spools of raw yarn). Other stages follow in the production chain, such as knitting or weaving yarn into fabric, dyeing materials, cutting and sewing, and packaging the final product. Thorough record-keeping is crucial throughout these stages to ensure the organic cotton product's integrity.
Organic cotton production accounted for only one percent of the total cotton grown worldwide in 2010. The top five organic cotton producers by volume in 2012-13 were India, China, Turkey, Tanzania, and the United States.
Although a small number of Australian cotton growers have experimented with organic cotton in the past, it was found to be uneconomical for long-term commercial production in Australia. As a result, it has not been widely adopted as a commercial crop in the country.
Instead, the cotton industry in Australia implements the myBMP (Best Management Practices) program, which consists of over 300 environmental and social standards that are similar to those used in organic cotton production. The industry believes that the myBMP program is the most effective certification for achieving sustainable cotton production in Australia.
Organic cotton’s approach to water conservation is remarkable, with studies showing that it can use up to 91% less water than conventional cotton. Given that a single kilogram of conventional cotton can consume between 10,000 to 20,000 litres of water, the shift to organic cotton represents a significant stride towards reducing the water footprint of the textile industry, which is responsible for 69% of its water use yet produces only 21% of the world's clothing.
The distinction between organic and traditional cotton becomes even starker when considering pesticide use. Traditional cotton uses 5.7% of the world's pesticides and 16.1% of insecticides, despite using only 2.4% of agricultural land. In contrast, organic cotton's ban of synthetic pesticides and fertilizers protects ecosystems and human health, dramatically decreasing the chemical load on the environment.
Organic cotton farming practices significantly improve soil fertility, enhance nutrient levels, and prevent soil erosion. Such agricultural methods not only contribute to healthier crops but also play a crucial role
A staggering 80% of normal cotton is genetically modified. This figure is closer to 95% in China, India and the US. GM crops can lead to all sorts of problems, including the creation of accidental ‘superweeds’ resistant to sprays, health issues for native species that might eat these GM crops, and reduced natural diversity. GM crops were designed to be resistant to existing pests. Unfortunately, the increase in pests has led to more herbicides being sprayed on fields.
In traditional cotton farming, many pesticides are used to manage pests, and each one of them has an environmental and health impact:
These pesticides are part of the larger chemical arsenal in conventional cotton cultivation, contributing to the push towards more sustainable, organic cotton farming practices.
Although organic cotton may have higher initial costs, it ultimately saves on health and environmental cleanup expenses, making it more economically advantageous. It's also important to highlight that organic cotton farming tends to be more labor-intensive, thereby providing more jobs within rural communities.
The demand for organic cotton is on the rise, propelled by consumer awareness and preference for sustainable and ethically produced goods. This growing trend not only supports the economic viability of organic cotton but also pressures the broader textile industry to pivot towards more sustainable practices.
The organic cotton industry's commitment to fair labor practices, including safe working conditions and equitable wages, marks a significant departure from the exploitative practices often associated with traditional cotton farming. Organizations like the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) ensure that organic cotton production adheres to stringent social standards, protecting worker rights.
Consumers can consider looking at certifications such as Fairtrade, which certifies cotton produced in an economically and environmentally sustainable manner, supporting farmers and workers.
In exchange for cotton fibre and other raw materials, Fairtrade workers must be paid the Fairtrade Minimum Price for their goods. They also receive the Fairtrade Premium. This Premium is additional funding that local co-operatives can decide how to reinvest in the business or their communities. Premium payments may go towards water efficiency schemes, for instance.
The harmful effects of pesticides can extend beyond just the environment. Pesticide poisoning is responsible for nearly 1,000 deaths every day, not to mention the chronic health problems that arise from exposure to these hazardous chemicals, such as cancer, neurological disorders, infertility, and birth defects.
Moreover, the chemicals sprayed on fields often find their way into local water sources, which are used as drinking water for nearby communities, causing health problems and disabilities in local communities that may already be struggling.
The comprehensive benefits of organic cotton, spanning environmental conservation, economic viability, and social equity, underscore its sustainability. However, the continued evolution of organic cotton practices, including the expansion of certified organic land and the adoption of eco-friendly processing methods, is essential for uncovering its full potential.
In short, the statistics and insights provided paint a compelling picture of organic cotton's sustainability. By embracing organic cotton, consumers play an active role in promoting a more sustainable and just global textile industry, making each organic cotton product a statement in support of a healthier planet and society.
Organic cotton's minimal water usage, absence of harmful pesticides, and soil-enriching farming practices contribute to its sustainability.
By ensuring fair wages and safer working conditions, organic cotton farming supports the economic and social well-being of farmers and their communities.
While challenges remain in scaling organic cotton production, advancements in sustainable agriculture and growing consumer demand are positive indicators of its potential to meet global needs.