Ever glanced at the ocean and thought, "Now, there’s a vast, untapped wardrobe?"... Neither had I, until the fashion industry, always on the hunt for greener pastures, cast its net into the sea. The catch? Kelp and seaweed. That’s right, the next frontier in eco-friendly fabrics. So, what’s the big deal with kelp clothing, and why is it making waves, especially in a world eager to embrace sustainability? Let’s unravel the story of seaweed fabric together and discover its burgeoning role in transforming fashion norms.
Rewind to World War I. Amidst the chaos, there was a quest for resilient materials, leading to the first recorded use of seaweed in textiles. Fast forward to 2001, and we see Nanonic, a Florida-based pioneer, breathing new life into this concept, turning it into a beacon of sustainability. Now, imagine this: 60% of our clothes are made from fossil fuel-derived fabrics like polyester and nylon. Enter seaweed fabric, a contender ready to shake things up. But, hold on... Is seaweed really a fiber? How do we go from oceanic plants to chic, wearable items? Let's dive deeper.
Seaweed fabric, particularly SeaCell, is crafted from a blend of lyocell and Ascophyllum nodossum, a type of brown algae sustainably harvested from the pristine Icelandic fjords. The secret sauce? A closed-loop system ensuring a process that’s kind to Mother Earth—carbon-neutral, chemical-free, and leaving behind minimal environmental footprints. Here’s the kicker: the fabric’s life cycle, from creation to disposal, is a testament to sustainability, with its biodegradability and the potential for carbon sequestration.
But how’s it made? The process involves recycling nearly all the water and solvents used, thanks to an organic amine oxide solvent-spinning method, earning a nod of approval from the FSC for its non-toxicity. The lyocell-and-seaweed yarn that emerges is a testament to innovation, blending 19% seaweed with lyocell from beech and eucalyptus trees.
Seaweed fabric is a material that is biodegradable, renewable, and carbon carbon neutral. Part of the claims are due to the eucalyptus trees, growing over a meter annually, and certain kelp species sprinting up to a meter a day. What does this mean? Essentially, we can harvest these materials with minimal guilt, knowing they bounce back faster than you can say "sustainable fashion."
And here’s a fun fact: Eucalyptus, with its sip-savvy nature, needs just a fraction of the water other trees guzzle. But the star of the show? Kelp. This oceanic farmer does its bit for climate change, gobbling up CO2 and sprucing up water quality without needing fresh water, land, or a sprinkle of synthetic fertilizers. When it comes to fabric production, we’re looking at a process that’s lightyears ahead of the cotton game—using a smidgen of water, slashing energy use, and saying a firm "no" to waste. Plus, kelp’s potential to supplant plastic in more than just our closets is nothing short of revolutionary, given the havoc synthetic materials wreak on our planet.
Seaweed fabric has many benefits over other textiles. Specifically, seaweed fabric contains:
Furthermore, seaweed fabric is easy to maintain, being machine washable at temperatures of 30°C or colder. However, it's important to note that the fabric does not respond well to bleach, tumble drying, or dry cleaning, ensuring longevity with proper care.
There has been extensive debate surrounding the actual proportion of seaweed present in SeaCellTM. Seaweed serves as an additive, with the primary component of the fiber being wood pulp, acting as a cellulose host fiber for the seaweed, which only constitutes five percent of the overall product. This raises doubts about the efficacy of seaweed's purported magical properties. Further details on this discourse can be found in an article on the Exchanging Fire blog page.
The primary controversy revolves around Lululemon Athletica's VitaSea line of apparel, which is based on SeacellTM. Laboratory tests conducted by the New York Times on a sample revealed that seaweed minerals were scarcely detectable in their product, rendering it indistinguishable from plain cotton T-shirts. These findings cast doubt on the company's claims regarding the health benefits of their garments.
Nevertheless, consumers attest to the distinct feel of the fabric compared to regular cotton T-shirts, and VitaSeaTM clothing continues to be sought after for the comfort it offers.
When juxtaposed with cotton, seaweed fabric presents a compelling case for sustainability. Cotton's extensive water and pesticide requirements stand in stark contrast to the renewable sourcing and carbon neutrality of seaweed fabric. Moreover, the durability and comfort of seaweed fabric are increasingly recognized, positioning it as a viable alternative to cotton in terms of wearability.
About twenty years ago, Lululemon started using SeaCell in their products. However, a 2007 investigation by The New York Times revealed that the fabric didn't deliver on the scientific claims it made, such as having anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties. Surprisingly, The New York Times couldn't even detect traces of seaweed in the fabric.
Despite this, Lululemon still offers their VitaSea line with the fabric, albeit without the medical claims. They now focus on the fabric's comfort and breathability. On the other hand, brands like Leticia Credidio, Pangaia, Vuori, and Smartfiber continue to promote the fabric's medicinal benefits, despite lacking scientific evidence.
The fashion industry faces challenges in regulating claims about the sustainability and health benefits of clothing. In 2022, the EU introduced laws to address this issue. However, brands selling SeaCell clothing persist in making bold and unsubstantiated claims. For instance, they assert that SeaCell has antioxidant properties that eliminate free radicals, can calm the sympathetic nerve, foster nutrient transfer, and absorb metal ions.
While seaweed itself is known to absorb heavy metals, there's no evidence that fabric made from seaweed possesses the same ability.
Furthermore, they claim that the fabric's natural moisture levels enable an active exchange of restorative substances between the shirt and skin, potentially repairing cellular damage, reducing inflammation, and soothing itchiness.
While seaweed does have remarkable health and wound healing properties, it's uncertain whether a fabric composed of 81% Lyocell and 19% heavily-processed seaweed powder can deliver these effects.
Despite the skepticism surrounding its health benefits, seaweed fabric offers significant sustainability benefits. However, it's essential not to fall for exaggerated claims about its magical health benefits.
The Australian fashion scene is embracing seaweed fabric, with brands and designers exploring its use in a variety of garments. The innovative approach of Iceland's Emblamar Studio, using seaweed's unique textures and colors, has inspired Australian designers to incorporate this material into their collections. Furthermore, projects like 'Transform' highlight the material's versatility and wearability, suggesting a bright future for seaweed fabric in sustainable fashion.
Seaweed fabric products are increasingly available in Australia, offered by brands committed to environmental sustainability. Companies like Pangaia and Lululemon Athletica are leading the way, with innovative offerings like Vollebak's compostable t-shirt showcasing the potential of seaweed fabric in everyday wear.
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